Japanese Denim: The Textile Heritage of Fukuyama

Text by Koki Wakiyama

This time, I would like to take a closer look at the denim fabrics we recommend for our made-to-order denim.

When people think of Japanese denim production, many may first think of Okayama, particularly Kojima. Of course, Okayama is internationally known as one of Japan’s great denim and jeans-producing regions. However, the textile production and dyeing techniques that have supported this industry from the ground up have their roots in neighboring Fukuyama, in Hiroshima Prefecture, and the wider Bingo region.

The history of Okayama’s jeans culture cannot be told without acknowledging the textile expertise developed in Fukuyama.

For our made-to-order denim, we have chosen as our foundation fabrics from a textile manufacturer based in Fukuyama, a company that has continued to specialize in the production of heavyweight cotton fabrics.

Why is Denim Production So Strong in Fukuyama?

The Bingo region, centered around Fukuyama, has a long history that explains why it became one of Japan’s leading textile and denim-producing areas.

Its roots can be traced back to the Edo period.

The region’s warm climate, relatively low rainfall, and soil enriched by reclaimed land made it particularly well suited to growing cotton. The cotton cultivated here, together with indigo-dyeing techniques, eventually developed into Bingo Kasuri, one of Japan’s three major traditional kasuri textiles, during the Meiji period.

One of the most important characteristics of Bingo Kasuri production was its division of labor, much like the textile industry of the Bishu region that we introduced in a previous article.

There were specialists who dyed yarn with indigo, weaving mills that carefully translated intricate patterns into fabric, and finishing specialists responsible for the final stages of production. Each operated independently while remaining closely connected within the same region, forming a highly developed local ecosystem of textile production.

After the Second World War, when jeans culture was introduced to Japan from the United States, the capabilities that had been cultivated in the Bingo region naturally found a new application.

The ability to weave durable heavyweight fabrics with precision. The expertise in rope dyeing, which allows yarn to be dyed deeply and consistently. And above all, the network of skilled craftspeople supporting these processes.

While Kojima in Okayama became known internationally as a center for the sewing, processing, and finishing of jeans, Fukuyama continued to preserve and develop the fundamental textile expertise behind them: the ability to weave durable, distinctive fabrics with character.

The Heritage of the Region and the Character Created by Rope Dyeing

Among the techniques passed down through generations in Fukuyama, one of the most important is rope dyeing, the traditional method widely used for indigo denim.

The yarn is gathered into rope-like bundles and repeatedly immersed in indigo dye and exposed to air for oxidation. This process allows the yarn to develop a deep indigo color while retaining a lighter, undyed core.

This characteristic, known as a white core, is what allows denim to develop distinctive fading and wear patterns over time. As the fabric is worn and subjected to friction, the surface gradually fades, creating a unique expression that belongs to the wearer.

Fabrics woven slowly and densely on old-style shuttle looms also possess qualities that are difficult to reproduce on modern high-speed looms. These include a subtle suppleness and depth, a softly hairy surface, and the distinctive character of the selvedge.

The careful balance of fabric weight and weft density allows these denims to retain their rugged character while also maintaining beautiful drape and structure when cut using trouser patterns derived from traditional tailoring.

Bringing Together Tailoring and Denim

Denim is often associated primarily with casual clothing. However, by selecting a carefully engineered fabric with a strong textile heritage and combining it with made-to-measure tailoring, we can create denim trousers with a more refined appearance that sit naturally alongside tailored jackets and dress shirts.

The question is how to tailor a high-quality fabric woven using techniques that have been passed down through generations in Fukuyama, one of Japan’s great textile-producing regions.

Fabric samples are available in our atelier, so we invite you to experience the texture, structure, and hand feel of these fabrics for yourself.

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Koki Wakiyama was born in Tokyo in 1998. After graduating from the Fashion Department at Vantan Design Institute, he spent seven years working in the made-to-measure division of a leading Japanese menswear company. He now works as a fitter at Drapper Hope in Minami-Aoyama, Tokyo.