[The History of Overcoats #2] The Challenge of Rain and Mobility: The Functional Beauty of the Trench, Balcollar, and Raglan

**The Challenge of Rain and Mobility**

In the late 19th century, the greatest dilemma for British gentlemen was 'rain and cold.' Formal woolen coats were vulnerable to rain, and the tightness around the shoulders when layered over thick suits was also a persistent issue.

To solve these problems, innovative coats were born, placing absolute priority on the pure functional utility of 'waterproofing' and 'freedom of movement.' Today, we will unravel the evolutionary story of the trench coat—a bundle of functional features born from military uniforms; the balcollar coat (also known as a balmacaan), which pursues a minimalist and functional beauty; and the raglan coat, boasting an innovative structural design.

**The Trench Coat: The Contributions of Two Great British Brands Born from Trench Warfare

World Wars and the Invention of 'Water-Repellent Fabric'**

The roots of the trench coat lie, as its name suggests, in the waterproof coats adopted by the British military for the 'trench warfare' of World War I. For the harsh conditions of the battlefield, rather than traditional heavy wool, a fabric combining exceptional durability and water-repellency was desperately needed.

Two historic British legacy brands played pivotal roles here. Aquascutum, founded in 1853, developed the world's first water-repellent wool fabric. Combining 'Aqua' (water) and 'Scutum' (shield), the name literally means 'water shield,' cementing the brand's status as a pioneer in waterproof coats.

Furthermore, Thomas Burberry, the founder of Burberry, invented 'Gabardine' in 1879—a revolutionary cotton fabric that brilliantly balanced breathability and waterproof performance. Coats crafted from this fabric were officially adopted by the British Army during World War I, rapidly spreading its reputation worldwide.

**Battlefield Functionality Embedded in Every Detail**

Every single iconic detail of the trench coat served a distinct, practical purpose on the battlefield. The epaulets on the shoulders were used for securing rank insignia and equipment; the double flap of fabric on the right chest (the gun flap or gun patch) was designed to absorb rifle recoil and prevent rain from entering.

The belted waist was far from mere decoration. Tying it tightly prevented cold air from entering the coat in freezing regions, playing a vital role in enhancing cold-weather insulation. Moreover, the D-rings attached to the belt were originally hooks used in early models to hang hand grenades and other gear—telling a vivid story of its gritty military history.

**The BalcollarCoat: Simplicity and the Functional Beauty of the Fly Front**

**From Countrywear to an All-Purpose Coat**

The origins of the balcollar coat trace back to 'Balmacaan,' a locality near Inverness, Scotland. It originally developed as a relaxed country coat that British nobility casually threw on during vacations and trips in the countryside. Distinct from urban formal coats, it occupied a position that prioritized practicality and a relaxed feel.

After making its way to Japan, the term 'stand-and-fall collar' was abbreviated based on its collar shape, settling into the Japanese-made English term 'suten-karan' (ステンカラー), and ultimately becoming a staple business coat.

**Wind-Resistant Collars and a Concealed Front**

The structural strength of the balcollar coat lies in its simple collar design. Featuring a collar that stands higher in the back and folds lower in the front, it offers exceptional wind-blocking performance when fully buttoned up to the top.

Furthermore, the greatest functional beauty of this coat—one not found in the trench coat—is the fly front (hidden placket). This structure, which conceals the front buttons beneath the fabric, physically prevents rainwater from entering from the front while simultaneously eliminating unnecessary ornamentation to create a clean, orderly appearance. This very 'simplicity' is the primary reason why the balcollar coat has established its all-purpose status in modern business attire.

**The Raglan Coat: The 'Secret of the Shoulders' That Created Revolutionary Comfort

The Impact of a Structure Born for Wounded Soldiers on Fashion**

The most famous origin story of the raglan sleeve—the defining characteristic of the raglan coat—attributes its creation to Lord Raglan, who lost his right arm during the Crimean War in the 19th century. It is said that he had this new sleeve structure devised so that he and his fellow wounded soldiers could slip in and out of garments with less stress and move their arms more freely. It has remarkably deep roots, born not merely from design, but from medical necessity and practical care.

**The Ultimate Solution for Mobility: The Functional Beauty of the Raglan**

Because raglan sleeves feature seams running diagonally from the neckline to the underarm, they offer an exceptionally wide range of shoulder movement compared to conventional coats. Thanks to this structure, even when layered over thick suits or jackets, the shoulder area remains completely unconstrained, making it one of the ultimate solutions for 'ease of movement' in modern overcoats.

Furthermore, because there are no seams sitting directly on top of the shoulders, the risk of rainwater seeping through the seams is significantly reduced. Beyond its sheer functionality, the soft, slope-shouldered line devoid of sharp angles brings a contemporary relaxed feel and a gentle elegance to the coat, offering a major aesthetic advantage.

**Functionality Is What Created the 'Modern Classic'**

As symbolized by the invention of water-repellent fabrics by Burberry and Aquascutum, as well as the anecdote of Lord Raglan, the core design of these coats is rooted in thoughtfully engineered 'functionality' designed to alleviate harsh environments and the stresses of daily life.

In particular, the functional beauty of the raglan continues to fit our modern lifestyles perfectly. Achieving a flawless, custom fit for your own physique—thereby maximizing the history-backed functional beauty—will be the key to truly mastering these practical coats.

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Koki Wakiyama — Born in Tokyo in 1998. After graduating from the Fashion Department of Vantan Design Institute, he worked for seven years in the custom-tailoring division of a major menswear manufacturer. He currently serves as a fitter at Drapper Hope.